built a CoolBot Refrigerator Trailer
first read about CoolBot many years ago and when doing my
documents I always included a CoolBot designed
in my costing plans. Then a couple of years ago I saw an
"Growing for Market" where someone had used a CoolBot to
refrigerated trailer unit. The thought of joining the
costs of a market
trailer and refrigeration unit were too good to be true
and I decided
instantly that this was the way to do it. We're in our
first year of
farming on our land now and this spring I got my chance to
CoolBot Refrigerator Trailer.
I am by no means a skilled DIYer.
I like to have a go at most jobs around the farm but
generally they end
up looking like a non professional did them. I found the
nuts and bolts
of converting the trailer was not above me. It took much
more time than
I expected, due 90% to insulating the trailer, and don't
leave time at the end for materials to cure before you put
Following is a cost break down and a photo journal of how
I built my trailer. After a few wrong turns and a little
more work than
I expected I ended up with a refrigerated trailer that I
really well and EASILY can be kept to 40 F or below. At
home I just use
an extension cord to power the A/C unit. At markets I use
My produce is kept cold wherever it goes!
X 10' Stealth Trailer with V Front
Window Air Conditioning Unit (12,000 btu)
Insulation - 2" x 4' x 8' sheets (20)
bubble wrap insulation
materials (gap fillers, screws, power cord,
I ended up using the following tools:
Power Drill and Impact Driver
Hand Saw to cut foam and plywood
Circular Saw for some plywood cuts
Tape measure, marker pens
Power Drill and Impact Driver
of all I wanted to install the A/C unit and CoolBot
running. After the initial apprehension of putting a
great big hole in
your brand new trailer this is actually by far the
easiest and most
rewarding part of the whole build process.
I decided to make
the trailer as level as possible. Mostly I ended up
relatively but when it came to trying to find the
studs at the
insulation stage I sometimes needed to use a level to
try and hit the
stud and this payed off.
Step 1: Create a hole for the A/C unit
Remove the front panels of plywood and store in a safe
place. (I reused
all the original plywood in the final layer)
measured the A/C unit to be 15" high and 21" wide
without the top piece
where the window would normally butt up against.
I made the
my hole 6" from the top of the trailer estimating 4"
for the insulating
+ a little for the plywood. In hindsight when
insulating this got a
little too close. I'd leave an 8-10" gap from the top
of the trailer
next time. I measured the hole as
best I could and then drilled holes in the walls big
enough for the
sawzall. I then cut one side of the wall out, then the
other, and then
the center strut.
test the fit, the A/C unit can be taken out of its
outside casing. It's
easier to use just this outside casing to test the
size of your hole
and make further adjustments where needed.
2: Frame in the supports for the A/C unit
had some 2" square metal piping laying around and I
decided to use that
to support the A/C unit. Originally I was worried about
how to support
the unit as they're around 80 lbs in weight but this
didn't prove to be
a problem. By the time I'd added the supports and then
it the unit was very solidly in place. You could easily
just use 2x4s
to support the A/C unit if you wished and save yourself
I didn't end up framing
the whole unit as I originally planned. I ended up just
making a ledge
basically for the unit to sit on. The outside cover was
onto the ledge and the unit slides into that and is
screwed to the
casing. It seemed very secure.
A/C unit will have specific instructions for how it is
supposed to sit
and these should be adhered to as closely as possible.
Because of the
v-front I ended up covering over the top vents so it would
drawing in the cool air from the trailer and this hasn't
have affected the unit's performance.
As my trailer has a
v-front I put a support post vertically down the center
for the two
horizontal beams to sit on. The horizontal beams were
attached to the
trailer and vertical post with metal brackets.
Next, a third
horizontal beam goes across where the front of the unit is
sit. Each end needs to be cut at the propper angle and
again I used
metal brackets to secure it to the previous two horizontal
beams. I did
not think I required a vertical support of this beam and
liked that I
had a clear usable space under the unit. Perhaps if you're
you may be happier with an additional vertical support.
the cover for the A/C unit is placed and screwed down onto
The A/C unit is placed inside it's cover and screwed in.
You can decide
whether or not you want to seal around the unit now or
wait until the
3: Adding a power cord and testing the A/C and CoolBot
supply power to the inside of the trailer I ended up just
buying a 2'
tri-source plug. This left me with three sockets on the
inside and a
male connector on the outside I could connect my
extensioin cord to.
fix it to the trailer I cut a hole big enough for the male
fit through and placed the three socket end on top of the
beam I made to support the A/C unit. In hindsight I should
more cord so the sockets were further from the wall. I had
to cut into
my last layer of insulation to allow for the plugs from
the A/C unit
and the CoolBot. There's no real reason I can think of not
plenty of cord to play with.
I refilled the hole around the plug with a spare piece of
from the trailer and some sealant.
to test it's all going to work! I temporarly screwed the
coolbot to a
place under the A/C unit. Then following the instructions
CoolBot was able to hook it up in less than 5 minutes I
would guess. It
really is very easy and logical and the A/C unit I chose
any of the possible problems (i.e. no extra or metal
the CoolBot and A/C unit into your tri-source plug then
outside male connector to your extension cord. Adjust the
A/C unit to
it's lowest temperature (probably around 60 F) and highest
Adjust the CoolBot to around 40 F if it's not already set
there. I was
amazed at the frigidity and amount of cool air coming out
of the unit.
Even with the doors slightly open the air temperature
dropped to in the
40s within 5 minutes.
Ok, this really is going to work!
is no doubt the most important stage and it definitely
takes some time.
I spent a lot of time insulating around the A/C unit and
the front "V"
of the trailer. In hindsight I'd consider a flat front
time in hopes of saving time on the build. Other difficult
the tail lights and around the rear doors. In the end
though it's a
case of jamming enough stuff in there, using the gap
filler and calling
it good enough. How ever tight you get it there's always
going to be
weak spots around the rear doors and the A/C unit itself
is not built
First of all I padlocked the side door closed. I'm going
over it so it won't be being used again.
I took off all the existing plywood. I saved this and used
it at the
end to help recover the inside of the trailer. My original
put the insulating foam right against the outside wall and
the metal joists giving me an extra 1 1/2" usable room
each side. I
started by insulating around the tail lights and above the
door. By the
time I'd finished that I looked at the rest of the trailer
imagine how long it would take to do something similar to
trailer so I went to plan B.
Plan B was to attach reflective
bubble wrap around the inside of the trailer first and
then attach the
rigid foam insulation over that. Per square foot the
wrap was cheap and depending on how it's installed could
nicely to the R-Value (I couldn't work out exactly what
R-Value I was
getting with how I installed it). Then I'd add the rigid
foam. I could
only find 2" foam with an R-10 value. So 4 inches would
R-20. Hopefully I'd be getting somewhere near R-30 but
atleast R-25 I'd
guess in most places.
To attach the reflective bubble wrap I
found that professional grade duct tape worked well.
would be sealed behind 4" of foam board so this should
keep it in place
fine. Try to leave a gap where ever possible between the
the side of the trailer. The bubblewrap is designed to
work with an air
gap and that's how it gets its higher R-Values. I
and taped along the edges to try and get a nice seal. I
used two 25' x
4' rolls and two 25' x 2' rolls. The 6' of width between
the 2 rolls
covered the areas nicely without having to do any long
cuts of the
bubble wrap. Eventually I covered the entire trailer
rear doors. (I'm not sure now why I left the rear doors
perhaps I forgot when it came around to insulating the
Make sure you keep track of where the studs are
with a marker so you can find them again when attaching
the rigid foam
Once I bubble wrapped the ceiling and walls I put
the first layer of rigid foam insulation on the ceiling. I
used 3" self
tapping screws to hold up the foam for the first layer. I
drill a pilot hole into the metal stud first for the screw
to be driven
To reduce the amount of gaps I insulated the areas in this
the ceiling had it's first layer of foam I bubble wrapped
and put rigid
foam on the floor. I kept this in place also with a few
screws into the
- Layer 1: ceiling, floor, walls
- Layer 2: ceiling, floor, walls
- Rear doors both layers
Next, the walls. These I managed to cut fairly tight
and was able to jam in between the ceiling and the floor
so I didn't
need to use any screws in this layer. The tricky part here
the cuts for the V-Front and around the airconditioning
unit. Once done
fix up the gaps with sealant and gap filler and leave for
a few hours
or over night as you'll probably have to do some trimming
of the gap
filler. It's really important with each layer to try and
get it as
airtight as possible so don't be shy filling those gaps.
you're on to the next layer which I did in the same order
as the first
layer. Remember to overlap the foam panels so the gaps do
not line up.
Things should go much the same as your first layer.
kept track of where your studs are. For this layer I used
screws and again had to predrill into the studs. I used
some glue on
this layer but I didn't find it that useful as it took too
long to set.
After you're all done again fill the gaps with sealant and
and leave for a few hours or over night.
step is the doors. When I closed the doors I noticed a 1"
the door and the floor insulation. When making my first
layer for the
door I cut a 1" x 4" high gap for the bottom of the doors.
closed the door I found it took a little effort for the
door to close.
Perfect. The second layer for the doors can just be added
existing door from the floor to the ceiling.
To allow the door
to close some of the center area of the door where the
doors meet must
be cut away. Be careful not to cut too much so that you
enough meeting of the insulation on each door to give some
when the doors are fully closed.
5: Adding the layer of plywood and water sealant
need to buy some extra plywood as you'll be covering the
and doors where you previously haven't removed any
I started with the floor using a decent thickness of wood.
easily laid down and secured using the 5"screws.
it was on to the walls using the old materials I'd
salvaged. Of course
the measurements are all different now so there was some
all in all the sides went back together well. I used the
5" screws and
tried to find the studs as best I could. By now I was
regularly but found enough to keep the whole thing secure.
I used the
insulation glue also to help keep the plywood flatter
inuslation foam. I then went around and filled the old
holes with wood
dough and pumped some more sealant into any new holes I'd
I missed the studs.
For the ceiling I used a 1/8" ply (same as
the sides) and again used 5" screws and attempted to hit
Definitely a 2 or 3 person job. I was also quite liberal
with the glue
here in case I really had a hard time finding the studs.
Lastly was the doors. These were the easiest part and I
to the construction part of the project.
Again I went around with gap filler and filled all the
gaps. This time
it's more for moisture than for insulation.
you're happy with that and its dried it's time to seal the
against moisture. I searched around for a long time about
can and can't use next to food. After finding it hard to
get a straight
answer from my local stores I ended up on a woodworking
sight where the
question was answered. Basically after they have cured
lacquers, varnishes etc are safe around food. After all
bowls and chopping boards etc with these sealants so the
inside of the
trailer (which is never going to come in direct contact
should be fine. If you wanted to be really safe you could
go with a
type of oil. These however tend to need regular
which may not be possible if used all the time.
I applied 3 layers over 2 days. Depending on the product
you use it may
take 1-2 weeks for the product to cure properly.
first summer into using the cooler and the cooler has been
great. For June we had the cooler on only a few days a
week when we had
produce in there. We left the doors open when it was not
in use which
was great for drying it out.
For July and August the cooler
has been running continuously. The cooler seems to easily
get down and
keep down to 40 F. I ended up just parking the trailer in
the shade of
a tree to help with the electric bill. It stays fairly
damp inside the
trailer but I have not noticed any degredation in the
insulation. When we're all done this year I'll let it dry
out and then
apply more coats of varnish to the plywood.
We feel the trailer is worth its weight in gold:
Also, we have not needed to buy a generator for market
use. In the end
we were able to hook up to an outlet at all our markets.
- Our produce is always kept cold so we can store it
for longer and still sell it.
can take more to market and not worry if we don't sell
it. Then if we
have a really busy market we can take advantage of
having more there.
our produce is stored better (at home and at market)
the customer gets
a better, fresher product which helps distinguish us
vendors. Customers have definitely noticed how long
our produce lasts
in their fridge.
- Consequently, we have thrown away very little
harvested produce this year.
- It seems to be very economical to run, between $1-$2
- (It's also great for parties - storing food and
We have only had two issues.
sensor fell out of the A/C unit while driving and the
unit froze up
when we plugged it in again. After allowing to thaw
worked fine. Now I always check that the sensor is in
restarting the unit.
- The A/C unit stopped working entirely at
one point. The fuse on the plug would trip instantly.
consternation we worked out it was moisture in the
actual plug. The A/C
unit is obviously not designed to be in such a humid
environment on the
inside. I took the unit out of the trailer and put a
fan on it. Once it
had dried out and the unit was working again I taped
all seams and
points moisture could enter the plug with electrical
tape and I have
had no further problems.
Now in its 4th year of use and the trailer is still going
two years we used it solely as our on farm cooler and
market trailer so
between June and October it was almost in constant use.
Last year we
added another coolbot refrigerator unit to the farm and
are now able to
give the coolers a break occasionally.
Other than the issues mentioned above there have been no
problems. I still use the same coolbot and air
conditioning unit that I
Next time I make another refrigerated trailer I would
choose a trailer
with a flat front end (The angled front end does not
provide any more
area really and made cuts difficult), wouldn't put
paneling on the
ceiling and would choose a durable paint rather than
coating with a
years on - Interior Fix
Well, my CoolBot Refridgerator Trailer is
it's 7th year and the only regret I have is using Plywood
to line the
inside so I've torn all that out and replaced it with a
washable plastic wall.
On pulling off the plywood there was a lot of rot and
grime behind the
walls and also once the water got under the polyurethane
it tended to
stay wet and rot even worse. I would not recommend using
plywood as the
liner to the trailer due to too much moisture.
The foam insulation is in perfect shape however and
I am still
using my original air conditioner and coolbot unit. I have
with keeping the trailer cool in summer still.
This interior upgrade cost me around $300 for materials
9 x PolyWall Panels @$20 each
6 x Packets of Drive Rivets
12 x PL 550 (This product didn't work too well so look for
18 x 8' lengths of joins and edges to cover seams etc
You'll also need a utility knife and straight edge to cut
a drill with 1/4" bit and a hammer, measuring tape etc.
And that's it! There's also a more rigid PolyWall product
glass in it.
I managed to put the new walls and ceiling on by myself
with the only
tricky part being the ceiling which I did by cutting the
sheets into 4'
lengths due to the PolyWall wanting to fall on my head.
PL550 acted fast to stick the PolyWall to the foam
insulation and I put
a few rivets in to make sure the piece held. I left the
walls to dry
overnight then came back and did some caulking etc. This
is probably a
2 day job, less with help.
I just finished this a day or so ago (04/03/2017) so I
will post if any
problems arose otherwise assume all was ok.